LVD Low Voltage Disconnect Module. 12V / 30Amp Black ABS Panel Mount Terminal Block

Worked like a charm. Set to 12.1 volts on and off, and it controls my heated grips the way it should have been done in the first place. The circuit on the grips was flawed and would kill my battery every time I forgot to shot it off.

The Low Voltage Disconnect Module is an excellent device for solving low voltage issues when your loaded system gets caught in a vicious situation of on-off-on-off cycling under load. The load on my 24v system will cause my inverter to cycle off when the battery bank drops to about 20v. The inverter then momentarily cycles off. When this occurs, my battery bank rebounds a few tenths of a volt in a few seconds or just long enough for the inverter to come back on. At this point, the inverter sees the heavy load to only cycle off again. This power cycling can continue for some time and is hard on the system when starting and stopping continuously under load with low batteries. After installing the 24volt/30amp Low Voltage Disconnect Module, I set the disconnect point at 21.4v and reconnect point at 24.2v. My system is now very happy and cleanly disconnects at about 85% of actual full charge of my battery bank, which is a good discharge cutoff point for longevity of my batteries. There are four options for each disconnect and reconnect set-point. The manual on-auto-off switch and status LED are also a very nice features for system maintenance and testing purposes. The company also make a 12, 36, and 48 volt version! If you have a load hystresis issue with your system, this device may be your answer.

It works! I bought this to use on a 12 volt lead acid battery to run a ham radio repeater. I have a solar set up with 200 watts of solar, 40 amp charge controler and a lead acid battery. I didn't was my battery completely draining. I wired the battery to this device than wired this device to a fuse block that powers the repeater and a thermastat that kicks 12 volt dc fans on and off or a small 12 volt dc heating mat placed under the battery. When low voltage is reached, this device kills power to the fuse block which kills power to everything. When the charge comes back up to set limits, everything auto kicks back on. I've done a lot of learning with this thing. Let me pass on some knowledge about how to adjust the voltage settings.For lead acid 12 volts:12.8 volts is a full charge12.1 is about 70% capacity11.4 is about 40% and a good setting if your looking to extend battery life by not completely draining the battery.10.7 volts is considered a dead man's backstop. A good setting if you want to use your juice but not drain the battery to a point of irreversible damage.10.5 volts is hard dead so 10 is to low to even think about for lead acid honestly.I got mine set to 10.7 so I can use all my juice but not cause irreversible damage. This I'll however reduce the life span of the battery.I did have the reconnect setting 12.8 but I had to wait all day before I could start using the repeater again. So I lowered that to 12.1. The solar panels produce that much as soon as the sun hits the panels allowing me to at least use the repeater during the day.

Purchased this item in January this year. It worked well for about three months. At some point it did not switch any more. Regardless of the position of the switch the load side of the switch had 0Volt.Communicated with the company. Finally the agreed that the item was broken. The last reaction of the company was that I purchased it via Amazon prime and I have to deal with the for return or refund. Unfortunately I cannot find that option.

Used to shut off the 12V refrigerator before the battery drains down too low

I was suspicious of other reviewers reporting short and long term failures. After investigating, a diode has been omitted between the L+ and the B- connection pins (cathode on L+, anode on B-). Because of the good rating this device has received, I suspect the majority of applications are not used close to the output current rating. The greater the load current the greater the likelihood of failure. Otherwise, the assembly and package quality is very good. For the low cost of this low voltage disconnect, give it a try unless the failure of this part has serious consequences for your application. If you have the knowledge and skills, I would add the diode just to be sure. BTW, I am an electronic engineer.

Does exactly what you'd want. Simple to install, does one thing and does it well. It does kick off and then back on a time or two if there is a decent load that draws voltage down below the threshold. Once the load is gone, the battery will "recover" slightly. You can crank up the "on" voltage a bit if you need to resolve this.

Electronics plugged into my car's DC accessory outlet was draining my car battery overnight. I connected this module between the car battery and the outlet with some 16 awg speaker wire, and now the car starts every morning.You can pick from useful voltage cutoffs at 12.1, 11.4, 10.7 and 10.0. I am using the 12.1 volt cutoff to shut off the electronics shortly after I park the car.